Society 15:06 07/06/2013

In a Turkish town that had 10,000 Armenians, now there is only one

Chris Bohjalian for The Washington Post

A woman I met last month in southwestern Turkey is going to die, probably sometime soon. Asiya’s death will not be covered by any news service, and for all but a few people in her small village of Chunkush, she will not be missed. Even the relatives who love her will probably think to themselves, well, she was 98 years old. Or 99. Or, if she survives until 2015, somewhere in the neighborhood of a century. She will have lived a long life.

When I met Asiya in May, her daughter brought me strong Kurdish tea and fresh strawberries from their yard, and when I return to her village someday and find that she has indeed passed away, I suspect I’m going to weep.

Why cry for a woman I met but once, who lived a long life and who couldn’t understand a word I said? Who spoke only Turkish, a language in which I know how to say only “please” and “thank you”?

Because Asiya is what some people call a hidden Armenian, and she is the last surviving Armenian in Chunkush.

I met her when I was traveling with six Armenian American friends through a part of Turkey that many Armenians (including me) refer to as Historic Armenia. We were in a region that today is largely Kurdish but as recently as 98 years ago was a mixture of Kurds, Turks, Assyrians and Armenians. We were making a pilgrimage to view the ruins of Armenian churches and monasteries, the remnants of a culture obliterated from this corner of the Earth in the Armenian genocide. During the First World War, 1.5 million Armenians were systematically annihilated — three out of every four living in the Ottoman Empire.

On our fifth day, we visited Chunkush, where until 1915 there was a thriving community of 10,000 Armenians. The ruins of the church loom over you. The town was almost entirely Armenian. Over a few nightmarish days that summer, Turkish gendarmes and Kurdish chetes — killing parties — descended on the village and marched almost every Armenian two hours away to a ravine called Dudan, where they shot, bayoneted or simply threw them into a chasm of several hundred feet. One of the gendarmes pulled Asiya’s mother from the line at the edge of the ravine, however, because he thought she was pretty. He decided he’d marry her. And so she was spared — one of the very few Armenians who were saved that summer day in 1915.

My companions and I hadn’t expected to find Asiya when we journeyed to Chunkush. We simply wanted to see the ruins of the church. Most of the villagers acknowledged that once upon a time Armenians had lived in Chunkush, but they were quick to add — whenever we asked what had happened to them — that at some point they had all “moved away.”

The truth was, they were still there, whatever remained of their bones deteriorating at the bottom of the Dudan chasm. We didn’t think there were any living Armenians in the town.

But as we were leaving, a thin fellow in his 60s, with a deeply weathered face and a ball cap, raced up to our van and banged on the door. We had been there an hour, and word had spread that Americans were in town. We had to meet his mother-in-law, he said.

Our Kurdish driver worried that this was the beginning of a nasty international incident: Seven Americans kidnapped or killed. But the fellow was desperate, so we agreed to come meet Asiya. My friend Khatchig Mouradian, editor of the Armenian Weekly in the United States, speaks Turkish and translated.

I have met survivors of the Armenian genocide before, including my grandparents. But meeting Asiya was different. She wasn’t in Washington or Paris or Beirut. She wasn’t a part of the Armenian diaspora, where we usually find the few remaining survivors of the genocide. Here was someone whose mother had been at the edge of the gorge — and who was still living where, more than likely, her grandparents and her father had been executed. Where her ancestral culture had been exterminated.

After the massacre, the town of 10,000 Armenians was reinvented as a town of 10,000 Kurds. Here was someone whose mother had heard the endless gunshots. The crash of the bodies on the rocks. The wails of the children.

She and her mother had grown up and grown old, aware of who and what they were — Armenian — but forced to conform and remain silent. That was the price of survival in the days after the genocide, and it’s a custom that, in small villages such as Chunkush, endures today. That is, perhaps, the very definition of a hidden Armenian.

Whenever we asked Asiya about being Armenian, she would shake her head ruefully and grow silent. One time her daughter chimed in: “No. We can’t talk about that.”

Whenever we asked what her mother had told her of the chasm, she would look down and murmur: “I was too young. I don’t remember.” Sometimes she would begin a sentence, “My mother said . . .” but then her voice would trail off.

At one of those moments when she paused, I took her hand. It was a reflex, and I had no idea if this was a cultural faux pas. But she wrapped my fingers in hers; her grip was powerful. She looked at me from beneath her headdress with eyes that were at once among the saddest and the strongest I’ve ever seen. I understood instantly why her son-in-law, a very good man, wanted us to meet her: It was because she wanted to meet us. She wanted to meet other Armenians.

Today there are but a handful of living survivors of the Armenian genocide. When the centennial arrives in 2015, there will be fewer still. I hope that Asiya will be with us, because I plan to return to Chunkush that year. No one from the village is going to commemorate the 10,000 who died in that chasm, so it will be up to people like me to make that effort — and, yes, to embrace the Asiyas of the world who were there.



Source Panorama.am
Share |
Տեքստում սխալ կամ վրիպակ նկատելու դեպքում, ուղարկեք խմբագրին հաղորդագրություն` նշելով տվյալ սխալը, այնուհետև սեղմելով Ctrl-Enter:

Newsfeed

17:03
Temperatures to drop further across Armenia
Scattered rain is expected in Armenia’s regions on Friday, Saturday and next week. Foggy conditions are possible in some parts of the...
16:30
Khachanov makes it to second round of China Open
Russian-Armenian Karen Khachanov, the No 7 seed, won against Spanish lucky loser Roberto Carballes Baena 6-4, 6-4 to move into the second round...
16:06
Opposition MP blames Pashinyan's government for 2020 war defeat
Opposition deputy Tigran Abrahamyan accused Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan's government of deliberately leading the country to defeat in the...
15:36
‘National disgrace': Opposition leader slams Pashinyan's meeting with Erdogan in New York
Seyran Ohanyan, the leader of the opposition Hayastan faction in the Armenian parliament, said opposition forces were striving to prevent the...
15:05
NSW MPs call on Australians to boycott COP29
Three members of the New South Wales Parliament have delivered powerful addresses on the floor of the Legislative Assembly to mark the first...
14:32
Archbishop Sahak Mashalyan arrives at Mother See
Archbishop Sahak Mashalyan, Armenian Patriarch of Constantinople, on Friday arrived at the Mother See of Holy Echmiadzin, the Armenian church...
14:04
Artsakh president commemorates 2020 war anniversary
Artsakh President Samvel Shahramanyan on Friday visited the Yerablur Military Pantheon in Yerevan to pay tribute to fallen soldiers on the...
13:30
Alen Simonyan to reportedly attend re-consecration of Echmiadzin cathedral
Armenian National Assembly Speaker Alen Simonyan will attend the re-consecration ceremony of the Mother Cathedral in Etchmiadzin on Sunday,...
13:03
No decision yet on next stage of Armenian-Azeri border delimitation, official says
No decision has yet been made on the next stage of the Armenian-Azerbaijani border delimitation process, Armenian Deputy Prime Minister Mher...
12:34
Ruben Vardanyan, other Armenian leaders mark one year as political prisoners in Azerbaijan
Today marks the first anniversary of the arbitrary arrest by Azerbaijani authorities of eight Armenian leaders, commencing with the arrest of...
12:15
Ex-defense minister set to become Japan's next PM
After five tries, former Defense Minister Shigeru Ishiba will finally lead the Liberal Democratic Party — and Japan, The Japan Times...
12:03
Pashinyan at UN: Armenian proverb says, 'Let us speak the positive in order to be well'
As part of his working visit to New York, Armenian Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan on Thursday delivered a speech at the 79th session...
11:36
Armenian deputy PM acknowledges problems in relations with Russia
Armenian Deputy Prime Minister Mher Grigoryan acknowledged problems in relations with Russia and other countries. "We need to make...
11:15
Artsakh president pays tribute to fallen soldiers on war anniversary
Artsakh President Samvel Shahramyan on Friday visited the Yrablur Military Pantheon in Yerevan to pay homage to fallen soldiers on the...
11:00
Armenia, Azerbaijan agree to put additional efforts towards signing of peace deal
On September 26, under the initiative and with participation of U.S. Secretary of State Antony Blinken, Armenian Foreign Minister Ararat...
17:15
Wheat production in Armenia unprofitable, economy minister says
Wheat production in Armenia is economically unprofitable, Minister of Economy Gevorg Papoyan told reporters outside the Armenian government...
16:46
Martin Scorsese's two film projects postponed
Martin Scorsese, the Oscar-winning filmmaker behind some of cinema’s most iconic works, had planned to begin shooting two highly...
16:34
Yerevan to host Meghraton exhibition and sale of bee products
Meghraton exhibition and sale of honey and other bee products is set to take place at Yerevan's Yeraz Park on September 28-29. The event is...
16:17
Political analyst slams Pashinian's UN speech, photo with Erdogan
Political analyst Suren Surenyants hit out at Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan for his speech at the Summit of the Future held on the sidelines of...
15:35
UNICEF and Germany to scale up child protection services for refugee children in Armenia
UNICEF and the German Embassy in Yerevan announced a new contribution of 2,9 million Euros from the German Federal Foreign Office in the...
15:05
New COVID strain cases detected in Russia
Specialists from the Russian Federal Service for Surveillance on Consumer Rights Protection and Human Wellbeing have recorded two coronavirus...
14:35
Armenian Airlines to launch direct flights between Yerevan, Volgograd
Armenian Airlines will launch direct flights between Yerevan and Volgograd, a city in southwest Russia, starting from 1 December 2024....
14:07
Political analyst says South Caucasus turning into a 'powder keg'
Political analyst Sergei Melkonian, a research fellow at the Applied Policy Research Institute (APRI Armenia), warns that the South Caucasus...
13:45
Today marks Komitas' 155th anniversary
September 26 marks the 155th birth anniversary of Komitas Vardapet, a prominent Armenian composer, priest, musicologist, arranger, singer and...
13:30
Georgia seeks to transform South Caucasus into a region of opportunities, PM says
Georgia has led the effort to transform the South Caucasus into a region of opportunities, Georgian Prime Minister Irakli...
12:55
Pashinyan's wife chats with Turkish first lady in New York
Armenian Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan's spouse, Anna Hakobyan, on Wednesday attended a reception in New York hosted by U.S. First Lady...
12:30
U.S. government announces $20,600,000 support to Armenia
Secretary of State Blinken and USAID Administrator Power spotlight democratic progress in Armenia and announce $20,600,000 from the United...
12:17
Blinken to meet with Armenian, Azeri FMs on Thursday evening
U.S. Secretary of State Antony Blinken’s meeting with Armenian Foreign Minister Ararat Mirzoyan and Azerbaijani Foreign Minister Jeyhun...
11:55
The government has decided to remove Mikayel Minasyan's brother from his position as minister, continuing its repressive measures
For three days, members of Armenia's ruling "Civil Contract" faction have been collecting signatures to dismiss Justice Minister...
11:35
Iran warns Israel against 'full-scale war' in Lebanon
Israel's leaders must understand their crimes won't go unpunished, Iran's foreign minister has said on the sidelines of the UN....

Follow us and get updates!

Most popular articles

{"core.blocks.header.spell_message1":"Selected mistake: ","core.blocks.header.spell_message2":"Send a message about the mistake?"}